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Just about everyone out there at some point has asked these questions..

"Why would I do that to my bike?

Your car or truck is water-cooled. A thermostat, radiator, fan & coolant. It could idle all day and maintain a consistent engine temperature which will also allow it to run in a lean, high mileage environment.

Your Harley however, is an air cooled internal combustion engine with no temperature management on the valley floor. About the leanest altitude in the state. It's operating temperature normally swings to over 300 degrees. The lean stoichiometric environment makes the engine run even hotter, which in turn shortens the life of your oil, engine components, makes your engine ping under load and provides laggy throttle response.

Ever seen your headers glow red after just a couple minutes? Cough out the air cleaner?

Isn't that really hard on the engine??

No. I perform Dyno testing & tuning on a chassis Dyno in a controlled environment.

Building timing tables and taking air fuel samples for tuning purposes throughout the entire rpm range for each throttle position and each cylinder independently. You're bike is tuned on real world timing tables and for correct air fuel ratio. The results will follow.

How much more Horsepower or Torque is my bike going to make?

It varies from bike to bike. It even varies from the same make & year to the same make & year. You'll never get the exact same results from the same bike. Which is why tuning each bike separately is so important.

Also remember: You torque & horsepower readout is at wide open throttle. That's not where you ride the bike.

Harley's typically run between 2-20% throttle at street and freeway speeds. This is where the big difference is noticed. This also where alot of tuners, don't spend the time.

An absolute increase in throttle response!!!!  GUARANTEED!

What about Fuel Economy?

Lots of complaints about STOCK bikes getting 30 MPG and very hot engines.... Why?

                    Engine doesnt respond under load,, So what do we do?

                                   Whack the throttle to almost wide open.

You should'nt have to grab a handful of throttle to the overly rich areas to get the bike up to speed (Bad fuel mileage).

Customers notice a very responsive & crispy throttle.      

                                              This is what you

    get with my

    Dyno-Tuning.

Check your Magazines!

Have you noticed that all of the bike magazines out there have something to sell, that doesnt require Dyno-Tuning?

------------------------------------------------------------Ever wonder why?-----------------------------------------------------------

-----------------------------------------------------------Conflict of Interest?---------------------------------------------------------

They're to busy getting paid to sell cheap inexpensive strap on items for less than $200.00 that I pull off the bikes because they cant do what they claim!

I have run sampled bikes for free to show how these devices don't do what they claim and how adjustable they aren't!! Then I tune them, and the proof is in the pudding.

They DON'T talk about the importance of correctly tuning VE tables OR building a real world pump gas AFR table OR correctly building timing tables that don't require computer controlled engine protection... ie.. knock sense..

Reputable shops with Dyno's DO NOT install these devices because they know they don't have the system control to do the job required & they are not load sensing! If a Dyno shop does sell one of these to you, your buying it from a salesman, not a knowledgeable Dyno operator.

   

  before w/ un-named fix-all device..                                    after w/ just a power commander..

                                                                RESULTS     

   25% Throttle step test during tuning process

                                           Temp RPM

  F AFR           Command AFR

  F IGN R IGN

   RPM

The most efficient engine management is the "Speed Density" (RPM X Throttle position X Engine load). This M.A.P. based fuel management system is currently in use today.

(It's just not calibrated correctly). A Dyno is required for this.

Alpha-N (RPM X Throttle position) is still desirable however not quite as optimum.

These are all very important facts when making mods, as simple as pipes and air cleaner to keep in mind.

Can't you just use one map for the same mods?

Unfortunately, no. Every bike, ecm, pipe, engine mod, etc.. all have different flow characteristics which is why it is important for you to tune your specific combination.

Customers will swap maps for break-in, but performance tuning is for the bike being tuned.

Most stock bikes will "ping" and run very hot. Pipes & air cleaner are usually the first things changed on a bike. Cartridge uploads (canned maps) from the dealership don't necessarily target the areas that need correction & tend to be a waste of money ($100.00 - $200.00), which is why I'm such a tuning fanatic.

Chances are, if you own a fuel injected Harley, I guarantee you will definately benefit from having your bike tuned. Period!

      I Dyno-Tune bikes to make them perform to they're full potential,

        bring down engine temperatures, increase throttle response & in turn,

                                               make the engine last longer..

                            I don't do this to sell cheap, quick install products.

        A correctly tuned engine will always run better, cooler & sound healthy!

                       And in the end, a happy customer is a lifetime customer

Paul Nicholls.

Why Dyno-Tune?

Web by Design Carte

Pictures property of: Paul Nicholls

LODI CUSTOM CHOPPERS

1310 Auto Center Dr. Ste A. Lodi, CA. 95240

Telephone:  209-369-7188

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